It is most famous for the arresting stone temples of Angkor, but Cambodia has more surprises in store for its visitors. Its capital Phnom Penh is gradually coming into the light from the oppressive shadows of the Khmer Rouge. A bustling little town, it is endowed with a quaintness that comes from its gracious French colonial boulevards and the tranquil stilted villages lining the river front. Head southwards and soak in the sun and shade chiaroscuro of palm-fringed beaches at Sihanoukville.